DreamMaker Bathrooms
Bath Repairs
- 10
steps away from a perfect finish
Our
Coating & its qualities
DreamMaker uses a proprietary aliphatic acrylic polyurethane
coating that provides amazing resilience to cracking during
expansion and contraction due to temperature fluctuations.
Unlike epoxy coatings, our coating will not crack or yellow
over time, it also provides a surface that is harder than
acrylic or enamel, yet flexible enough to withstand the
impact of dropped objects. This resilience is essential to
its durability and long wearing. It also provides terrific
stain resistance and colour retention, as compared to other
types of bath coatings.
Each 1.89
litre bottle of coating weighs and amazing 1.5 lbs more than
most other coatings on the market, this is due to the high
solids content of the coating – an incredible 69% solid by
weight. The higher solids content of the coating gives the
coating greater ability to cover the old surface with less
coating than with other brands.
The coatings high Titanium Dioxide content provides
whiteness, brightness and opacity and does not contain any
cheap filler. Our customers are thrilled with the super
shiny 95+% gloss.
This coating is the coating of choice for baths,
sinks, basins, tile, vanities, appliances, countertops, and
cabinets...the list is endless!
Terminology
You may
have encountered several different terms referring to the
process of bath and bathroom resurfacing. To avoid
confusion, please note that all the different words used to
refer to resurfacing amount to the same thing:
Resurfacing
= Refinishing = Reglazing = Reenamelling
The
differences that do exist lie with the methods and materials
used in surface preparation, priming and top coating, but
these differences are not endorsed to any particular term
above.
The terms
're-enamelling', 'synthetic porcelain' and 'thermal fusion'
can be misleading as they infer that a process involving
kiln temperatures is employed in the bathroom, which simply
isn't the case. Using such terms may also suggest that the
refinished surface is the same as original porcelain or
vitreous enamel, which it isn't.
Thinking about
refinishing yourself?
We strongly suggest you
don't!! Bath refinishing or resurfacing is not a
do-it-yourself project; it involves the use of strong
chemicals and materials that are beyond the skill and
ability for most homeowners and untrained users. All our
technicians have to be trained and as a company licensed to
use and carry these products. DIY kits are limited in their
strength, durability and way they are applied
and usually fail within a month or two. They typically
consist of an epoxy coating, which takes up to 5 days to dry
and yellows significantly over time. Most kits are rolled
or brushed on the fixture, giving an unsightly looking
amateur finish. Some kits are sprayed on with an aerosol
can, causing uneven coverage, over spray and drips. The
mirror-like finish you really want cannot be achieved
without proper training and experience and professional
spray equipment. Most often DIY refinishing jobs end up
being redone by a professional with the additional cost of
stripping the peeling finish. If these kits actually
worked, there’d be no need for professional refinishers like
us.
Resurfacing
is a multi-step procedure
DreamMaker Bathrooms technicians follow detailed,
step-by-step procedures to ensure a professional finish and
long term durability.
There are
differences when resurfacing different surface materials and
different items, but the basic steps are the same. The
following example illustrates the main steps in the
resurfacing of a built-in cast iron bath:
STEP 1 –
Before

Cast-iron
and steel baths with porcelain surfaces and vitreous enamel
surfaces can become thin and porous over time, absorbing
soap, body oils and cleaners. This leads to pin holes, rust,
chips and exposed metal areas. Moulded acrylic fibreglass
baths on the other hand can crack when the acrylic skin has
worn very thin. Everyday wear and tear can chip and scratch
any surface, including baths, basins, toilets and cabinets.
STEP 2 - Trim sealant

Existing sealant is removed to allow
resurfacing to extend under the tiles.
STEP 3 - Clean the surface
The surface is thoroughly cleaned,
removing grease, soap residues and other contaminants from
the surface.
STEP 4 -
Surface Etching

DreamMaker Bathrooms uses a controlled
surface etch which creates a stable, uncontaminated micro
porosity, perfect for establishing a very strong bond with the
bonding agent system that follows.
STEP 5 -
Chip Repair

Chips and
cracks are repaired with either a blended epoxy resin
requiring heat cure or a fast cure, polyester filler. The
epoxy system is designed for use on mineral surfaces such as
porcelain and vitreous enamel, and the polyester system is
use on synthetic materials such as Acrylic.
STEP 6 -
Masking

The
entire area is prepared for treatment. Professional masking
ensures that the coating is only applied to the surfaces
that are being resurfaced, with all other areas protected
from overspray.
STEP 7 - Spraying Bonding Agent

A non-hygroscopic bonding agent primer
provides the bond between surface and top coating. An
evacuation unit is used to remove any solvent smells during
the spray application procedures. The Classic Surface
resurfacing system derives its superior adhesion from
chemical bond.
STEP 8 - Preparing to Spray

The Classic
Surface coating is activated and allowed to catalyze for at
least 30 minutes prior to spraying.
STEP 9 - Spraying the Coating

Three coats of the Classic Surface coating are then spray
applied,
with a wet film thickness of approx. 75 microns per coat.
The precautions
taken and the equipment used both help to ensure a very smooth finish
with a uniform dry film thickness sufficient for prolonged scrub life.
STEP 10 - After Resurfacing

After drying
and curing, your bathroom will have a whole new look. The
chips, scratches and rust have gone and instead you have a
tough, shining surface that cleans easily and will last for
many years*, all at a fraction of the cost of total
replacement.
*
Expected life span of the surface is determined by usage and
cleaning. Abrasive cleaning, chemical attack and chipping/
gouging of the surface will shorten the life.
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